Francesca Bianchi - The Code of Emotion - niche perfume
Accords: Surprising, Comforting, Uplifting, Joyful
Olfactory profile: Fruity Fougère
My creativity has always been driven by the idea of an “Emotion Generator Machine” crafting fragrances specifically designed to spark emotions.
For this creation, I started with the familiar fougère structure but pushed its boundaries by introducing a surprising tropical twist, led by juicy mango.
The scent balances comforting familiarity with playful brightness, creating a sense of surprise and joy.
30 ml Extrait de parfum
| Category: | Niche perfumes |
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Top notes: Bergamot, Pink Pepper
Heart notes: Exotic Fruits Accord, Lavender, Geranium
Base notes: Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Oakmoss, Vetiver
*No animal-derived ingredients have been used
Even before I launched my first perfumes, I was obsessed with the idea of an “Emotion Generator Machine”. This is what drives me during my creation process: building fragrances with that specific purpose of igniting an emotion.
Like a mechanic fine-tuning a powerful engine, I carefully place each note in order to trigger specific emotions — i.e. the intensity of passion of lovers, a memory of the smell of skin, a sense of nostalgia for an imaginary place, etc.
For this particular creation, my focus was to dig deeper into the very mechanism of the emotional response to my medium of expression, the art of perfumery. How can I make it work? Are there methods that can be replicated? And can they spark the same emotion in different people?
I experimented in different directions, focusing on a method that I used many times already, but this once with more focus and intention. The goal was to decode an emotion, to deconstruct the input that ignites it, in other words to write a ‘Code of Emotion’.
In this experiment, I started with the classic fougère structure – a green, aromatic, woody accord, which is familiar and recognizable. Besides, this is an accord that I only recently started to emotionally connect with. But I wanted to push it further, challenging its traditional boundaries by introducing an unexpected twist: a vibrant accord of tropical fruits, with juicy, mouthwatering mango at its heart.
This exotic note disrupts the predictable accord of the fougère, rewiring it into something both familiar and surprising. The result is a scent that feels recognizable but also refreshingly different, requiring a moment to detect the familiar fougère footprint beneath the luscious and original facet of fruitiness.
To me, this fragrance sparks a joyful sense of surprise—a contrast between the grounding comfort of the fougère and the playful brightness of the tropical fruits. It feels pampering yet invigorating, deep but never heavy, mouthwatering without slipping into gourmand territory.
Additionally, I set a secondary challenge for myself: to avoid using iris or iris-like accords altogether and to keep animalic notes to a bare minimum, limited to only a couple of clean musks.
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Perfumer Francesca Bianchi creates exceptional, stunning perfumes that express her deepest emotions. Having been inspired to make perfumes by the many places she has visited and worked in the world, such as Marrakesh, Amsterdam and Florence, this former art history graduate and art book publisher now oversees the entire perfume creation process. From blending and sourcing own ingredients to bottling, packaging and distribution.
A unique tradition
INSPIRED BY MEMORIES
A sensualist and art historian, Bianchi is drawn to the more expressive and emotional aspects of perfume; she believes that any perfume that evokes an emotion or a memory is better than one that simply pays homage to a certain material.
She is personally inspired by memories of childhood scents, smells of various places, face creams, people, even dreams - her true measure as an artist is that she expresses these feelings most clearly through her perfumes without losing any of the original intensity. Her perfumes are like strong, mysterious, sensual and hungry creatures that completely devour their wearer.
DESIRE TO SPARK AN EMOTION
Francesca is mostly inspired by the power of what it means to be human, by the wish to connect with people’s inner life, the desire to spark an emotion in them and make them feel at home in their own bodies, offer solace, or just a quick fix for a bad day. Olfactory signals travel with no mediation – just in a couple of synapses – to the limbic system, the place assigned to memory and emotions in our brain. As a result, the reaction triggered by the sense of smell is biologically inescapable, not liable to manipulation. It therefore fully satisfies our longing for authenticity.
Her perfumes have gained a reputation for being sensual and provocative, probably as a consequence of their focus on human nature and intimacy.